Das Niederländische Modelabel Studio JUX hat den mit Euro 25.000 dotierten Green Fashion Competition der Amsterdam Fashion Week gewonnen. Carrie Parry aus den USA gewann den Preis für Jungdesigner. Herzlichen Glückwunsch!

Der Green Fashion Competition, der im letzten Jahr von Elsien Gringhuis gewonnen wurde, soll junge Designer motivieren nachhaltiger zu produzieren. Dieses Jahr wurden in der Kategorie 1 (25.000 Euro) Modelabels geehrt, die bereits in der Modeindustrie arbeiten und internationaler werden wollen. In Kategorie 2 (15.000 Euro) ging es v.a. um junge Kreative und Absolventen von Modeschulen.

Gewinner Kategorie 1: Studio JUX

Das Niederländische Label Studio JUX ist Mitglied der Fair Wear Foundation (Clean&Unique) und produziert in Nepal. In jede Stück wird ein Etikett eingenäht, das einem sagt, wer diese Kleidung genäht hat. Designerin Jitske Lundgren ist sogar nach Nepal gezogen, um die Produktion eigenhändig zu kontrollieren. Angorawolle kommt von einer Biofarm mit Angorahasen, die gekämmt und nicht rasiert werden. Ferner wird das im Anbau umweltfreundliche Hanf verwendet und recycelte Plastik-Flachen. Wir werden später mehr über Studio JUX berichten.

Gewinner Kategorie 2

Carrie Parry legt hohen Wert auf Nachhaltigkeit und will Stücke produzieren „that never go out of style“. Alle Teile werden in New York City zusammengenäht. Die Stoffe werden in San Francisco umweltfreundlich bedruckt. Ferner legt sie hohen Wert auf Nachhaltigkeit bei der Auswahl ihrer Materialien: Sie verwendet Biobaumwolle (GOTS) und Biowolle, Tencell, recycliertes Polyester, „Cupro“ für Futter aus Abfällen der Baumwollproduktion und Seide.

Studio Jux ist noch nicht in der Schweiz zu kaufen (ausser online), aber vielfach in Deutschland und Österreich. Wir werden das bald in unserm Shopping Guide ergänzen. Carrie Parry gibt es bisher leider v.a. in den USA oder online.

Die Jury hatte je Kategorie 4 Finalisten ausgewählt. Hier ist die geweilige Begründung.

Finalisten der 1. Kategorie

Studio JUX: “This brand clearly addresses biodiversity issues in the fashion industry and provides a very good overview of materials used, related certifications and sourcing locations. The designs are modern, and simple but interesting enough not to bore. The playful and colourful designs are striking.” The jury believe that this company can have a true impact on the communication of green labels and a that it has a thorough understanding of biodiversity and sustainability in general, the business plan even included a Life cycle analysis of CO2 emissions. “The business plan reads that the brand means ‘Fun’ in German. We would not be surprised if it means ‘Sustainable’ in Nepalese.”

L’Herbe Rouge: „L’Herbe Rouge shows a clear understanding of the impacts of materials and processes on biodiversity. The designs are both refreshing and sober. Clothes are clean cut and minimalistic and are made of recycled yarn and organic cotton. The pieces are well connected and the brand already has a good track record. The knowledge of biodiversity is translated into the right decisions on design and materials, of which the dyes from organic grapes should definitely be mentioned!”

SPRB: “This label stands for its raw aesthetic. The eye-catching knits are highly fashionable, comfortable and enriched with handcraft details. Designs are made by hand, using local production and organic cotton and natural dyes. This plan has a lot going for it.” The jury like the creative spirit tainted by true craftsmanship behind the label. “The label claims that their products are multifunctional and that you can even wear them upside down. It would be interesting to see if this is true, or if it means walking on your hands.”

STAT Divisions: “STAT Division has a very beautiful philosophy and its designs are characterized by Feminine, nautical and sporty elements. Important to note is the use of luxurious fabrics and the avoidance of haberdasheries. The brand has a clear vision of sustainability and biodiversity. The concept of biodiversity is well understood and explained, biodiversity-friendly choices are clear and the plan is easy to read.”

Finalisten Kategorie 2:

Oh my bag: “This labels presents accessories that are classical with a slightly fashionable twist. The used materials are very well sourced, and give the designs the must-have factor. The plan is well thought through with a clear vision on sustainability and is also feasible from an operational point of view.” One jury member said: “It would be a great way to end your life as a retired Indian cow. I would be interested in buying the bag based on the story alone, even though I don’t need a bag.”

Carrie Parry: “This label launches modern clothes with a nonchalant touch, which are for a sophisticated and conscious target market. The plan displays a sound knowledge on sustainability issues and biodiversity, including the right choice of materials and a strong supply chain focus. Sustainability is thoroughly integrated in the work of the company by means of a clear mission, values and guiding principles on sustainability.”

Zaida Adriana Goveo Balmaseda: “The focus in this collection lies on the outspoken use of handcrafted materials. Fabrics are hand-dyed and quilted and knits are made from hand-spun yarns. This in combination with multifunctional designs make the label really exiting. The business plan shows a good knowledge of sustainability issues and covers more than just the right choice of materials. Like the designer says: ‘It’s more than the clothes, my work should be a catalyst for positive change.’”

Narelle Dore: “This label presents a niche market product with strong focus on an artisanal approach and internal motivations. People that buy this product will probably never throw it away. Use of sustainable materials and a low energy production by hand completes the picture for biodiversity. The label presents without a doubt one of the most experimental collections. Dresses and tops are constructed from kilometres of woollen yarn. The colour palette is soft and subtle. Though the designs remind us of the flapper dresses from the twenties, they are at the same time fresh and avant-garde.”