NEWSLETTER FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY NO. 5

Dear reader

Here are some highlights from our Newsletter Fashion, Textile & Sustainability No. 5:

  • The CCC Germany published the report „Im Visier: Discounter“ about the working conditions of Aldi’s suppliers in Bangladesh and calls for protests against Aldi. At the same time, labour rights groups and trade unions have signed an MoU with the US based company PVH (owner of Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein) to improve safety at their suppliers in Bangladesh. Another report was published by the CCC „Deadly Denim“ about Sandblasting in Bangladesh. To show alternatives, we published our „Good Jeans Guide“ and Grünemode.de published two detailed reports about K.O.I and HIUT.
  • Greenpeace updated its „Dirty Laundry Report“, arguing that even in Europe much more toxic waste gets into the rivers that you would believe.
  • Transfair Germany awareded the Fairtrade Award to the discounter Lidl (second price), which was heavily criticized. NGOs or newspapers like the TAZ questioned, whether a discounter should be awared such a price.
  • The recommendable Insider Guide on Cotton and Sustainability by MCL Global and Ecotextile News can now be bought for 25 Pounds and the Austrian consumer magazine KONSUMENT tested Leathershoes, focussing on „ethics“, and TextileExchange updated the Global Recycling Standard.

If you have any wishes, please do not hesitate to contact us ms(at)netzwerkfairemode.com

Kind regards

1.   CSR & SUSTAINABILITY

Four Emerging Trends in Corporate Social Responsibility | Triplepundit, 15.03.2012

1 Your brand is decreasingly under your control

2 Transparency is terrifying, but authenticity is the reward

3 CSR is a business imperative

4 CSR pressure is increasingly bottom up, not top down

Why companies need to beware the KONY effect | The Guardian, 23.03.2012

Smart companies will be fully aware of the harm viral video campaigns by pressure groups like Invisible Children and Greenpeace can do to their brand, says Matthew Yeomans

2.   WORKING CONDITIONS

The legal aid bill will enable multinationals to exploit the poor | The Guardian, 27.03.2012

Today, parliament will take a vote on the legal aid bill, which will either secure the reputation of British justice being fair and just or leave victims of human rights abuses and environmental crimes in developing countries with no access to our system of justice.

Supply Chain Children | BBC News, 24.03.2012

Globalisation has brought the world’s goods to the west. But how can rich consumers be sure they are buying food and clothing manufactured without harming workers – especially children? Humphrey Hawksley reports.

Agreement reached with PVH on safety in Bangladeshi garment factories | CCC, 22.03.2012

CCC: We are very pleased to announce that CCC, together with Bangladeshi and international labour rights groups and trade unions, have signed an Memorandum of Understanding with the US based company PVH (owner of Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein) to improve safety at their suppliers in Bangladesh.

Workers Die at Factories Used by Tommy Hilfiger | ABC News, 21.03.2012

More than a year after 29 people were trapped in a fire at a garment factory in Bangladesh used by well-known American clothing brands, an ABC News investigation found the retailers right back in business at the factory. And labor groups say dangerous conditions such as locked gates and shoddy wiring persist in a country where nearly 500 workers have died in garment factory fires over the past five years

Workers slam Olympic rights abuses | Morning Star, 20.03.2012

Anti-poverty activists kicked off a week of campaigning to step up the pressure on Olympic organisers and sports clothing manufacturers over the use of sweatshop labour at a meeting on London on Monday night.

New California Law Takes Aim At Forced Labor | International Labor Rights Forum, 19.03.2012

Two months ago the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act of 2010 [CATSCA] took effect.  Following a nearly three-year effort, the bill known as SB 657 was passed by the California legislature and signed into law by then Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger in 2010.

3.   ENVIRONMENT

Dirty Laundry: Reloaded | Greenpeace, 20.03.2012

How big brands are making consumers unwitting accomplices in the toxic water cycle

Water is essential for life, but it is also the world’s most threatened essential resource. It is imperative that solutions are found to stop poisoning the precious resources we have left with hazardous chemicals.

Gefährliche Wäsche | Glocalist, 20.03.12

Eine Studie von Greenpeace sagt, dass durch normale Waschvorgänge giftige und auch hormonell wirksame Chemikalien in Flüsse gelangen. Davor trägt man sie auf dem Körper. der zu 70% aus Wasser besteht. Auch nicht gut.

Textile Exchange Webinar on Recycled content | Textile Exchange

4.   COTTON and other fibres

Loden aus heimischer Wolle | Bayerisches Fernsehen, 26.3.2012

Die Wolle der Rhönschafe wird wieder attraktiv: Aus ihr lässt sich hochwertiger Loden herstellen. Gleichzeitig wird damit etwas für die Umwelt getan. UNKRAUT hat sich im ältesten Textilunternehmen Deutschlands umgesehen, einer Loden-Tuchfabrik im Bayerischen Wald.

Hanf – Stoff für die perfekte Jeans? | Bayerisches Fernsehen, 26.3.2012

Jeans sind seit mehreren Jahrzehnten eines der beliebtesten Kleidungsstücke der westlichen Welt. Doch zur Jeansproduktion benötigt man Baumwolle – und ihr Anbau ist alles andere als ökologisch. Könnte Hanf eine Alternative sein?

Kaschmir-Schwindel | Bayerisches Fernsehen, 26.3.2012

Kleidung aus der edlen Wolle der Kaschmirziege ist ein teures Luxusprodukt. Doch es werden auch erstaunlich billige Kaschmirpullis angeboten. Wie ist das möglich? UNKRAUT deckt einen „Dicken Hund“ auf.

Walmart and Olam join Better Cotton Fast Track Program | IDH, 23.3.2012

World largest retailer and first supply chain manager gives extra push to increase Better Cotton …

5.   TRANSPARENCY

Breaking Down the Bill | New York Times, 27.2.2012

What does it take to create luxury fashion that is truly green? The designer Bruno Pieters believes he has the answer with a new brand, Honest by.

6.   STANDARDS & CERTIFICATES

Cleaning up the Global Compact: dealing with corporate free riders | The Guardian, 26.3.2012

If you want to know whether greenwash is alive and well, look no further than the thousands of companies being thrown out of the world’s largest voluntary corporate sustainability initiative, the UN Global Compact. More than 750 businesses, including major corporations in Europe and America are likely to be kicked out in the next six months alone, with hundreds more to follow. These are on top of the 3,100 businesses already delisted in the past few years.

Global Recycle Standard (GRS) v2.1 | Textile Exchange, March 2012

Textile Exchange is announcing that it will be implementing a minor but important change to the current Global Recycle Standard; the allowance of pre-industrial waste will be removed and the standard will only recognize pre-consumer and post-consumer waste.

The new standard will effective June 1st, 2012.  All companies being newly certified to the GRS will be required to use the GRS v2.1, and companies with existing GRS v2 certification will maintain their current certification until the end of the validity date on their scope certificates.

GRS: International Working Group Created | Textile Exchange, March 2012

TE is excited to announce that we have moved to a new structure to complete the development of version 3 of the Global Recycle Standard  … International Working Group (IWG) that will consist of standards setting organizations and certification bodies who are willing and able to engage fully in the development of the new standard.  Following the example of GOTS …

7.   CONSUMERS & MARKETING

Ecolabels: Friend or Foe? | Sustainable Brands Blog, 28.03.2012

… roughly 8 in 10 consumers in developing countries indicate a green seal or certification mark increases the likelihood they’ll buy it. …

Consumers and the supply chain | mother nature network, 27.03.2012

Companies around the world are evaluating their supply chains to safeguard their bottom lines and their reputations as socially responsible corporations.

Lederschuhhersteller. Blut ist im Schuh | KONSUMENT 4/2012, 27.03.2012

Sklavenähnliche Arbeits­beziehungen in Brasilien, grausame Misshandlung von Rindern in Indien – wer ein Paar Lederschuhe kauft, muss damit rechnen, dass sie unter skandalösen Bedingungen produziert wurden.

Rent day spells D-day: The crisis on our high streets | Independent, 25.03.2012

Hundreds of high street retailers face the threat of closure as they struggle to pay big rent bills due at the end of one of the worst winter trading seasons in living memory.

Should we label clothes like we label food? [Survey] | WJBC, 25.03.2012

Instructional Assistant Professor of Apparel Merchandising & Design Elisabeth Reed works in Illinois State University’s Department of Family and Consumer Sciences.  She has been blogging about an experiment she calls “My Sustainable Wardrobe” since November.  And now, she’s researching how to get consumers to pay attention to clothing labels the same way we look at food labels.

8.   SLOW FASHION / RECYCLING / DIY / PRODUCTION

9.   PEOPLE

10.       REGIONS

Out of Love With China, Fashion Factory Moves West | CNBC, 22.03.2012

A string of countries on and around the fringes of western Europe are becoming new centres of fashion clothing manufacture as China moves up the industrial value chain and brands discover adaptable suppliers closer to home.

Major Thai garment companies moving to Burma | mizzima, 19.03.2012

„Some of Thailand’s top garment companies will move their operations to Burma in the coming year. At least six leading garment manufacturers plan to set up shop to take advantage of lower wages by the second half of the year, according to an article in The Nation newspaper on Saturday.“

11.       FAIRS

12.       BRANDS

Eine Sache richtig gut machen | Grünemode 30.3.2012

Passend zum Good Jeans Guide hier nun der versprochene Artikel über das jüngste Ethical Denim Brand aus Großbritannien. Hiut wurde von David und Clare Hieatt gegründet. Das Ehepaar hat mit howies bereits Erfahrungen im Bereich der grünen Mode gesammelt. Nun starten sie noch einmal neu und haben sich nicht weniger vorgenommen, als die Jeansproduktion zu revolutionieren.

Nachgehakt: Wie produziert ihr eigentlich, H&M? | This is Wayne Blog, March 2012

Es ist immer einfach, mit dem Finger auf Jemanden zu zeigen. Speziell dann, wenn andere es dir gleichtun. Er ist eben schnell gefunden: Der Übeltäter, der Bösewicht, der Spielverderber – So war es schon damals in Kindertagen, und so wird es vermutlich für immer sein. Zugegeben, wir müssen unterscheiden zwischen vermeintlichen Banalitäten und wirklichen Straftaten.

13.       NGO CAMPAIGNS & PROJECTS

Human Rights Due Diligence | International Corporate Accountability Roundtable, new project

The International Corporate Accountability Roundtable (ICAR), the European Coalition for Corporate Justice (ECCJ) and the Canadian Network on Corporate Accountability (CNCA), are pleased to announce the launch of the “Human Rights Due Diligence Project”. This first-ever coalition collaboration seeks to clarify and build consensus around the concept of human rights due diligence and to develop recommendations on how to embed this concept in domestic legislation and policies.

Government reforms undermine UN guiding principles on Business and Human Rights and encourage impunity for abuses | Corporate Responsibility Coalition (CORE), March 2012

Members of the Corporate Responsibility Coalition (CORE) are extremely concerned that, unless it is amended, the Legal Aid, Sentencing and Punishment of Offenders Bill…will: Act as a barrier to justice for victims of grave human rights abuses…Shift liability for costs from multi-national companies (MNCs) (that have access to huge budgets and resources) to innocent victims from developing countries…

CCC Protestmail an ALDI | CCC, March 2012

Die Schnäppchen-Hits bei Aldi werden mit systematischer Missachtung von Sozialstandards bei globalen Zulieferern erkauft, wie jüngst die Studie Im Visier Discounter zeigte. Bis heute hat sich der Discounter Pionier nicht zu den Vorwürfen geäußert. Die Kampagne für Saubere Kleidung ruft zum Protest auf.

Fairtrade-Award 2012 | Transfair, March 2012

In den vier Kategorien „Handel“, „Industrie“, „Newcomer“ und „Zivilgesellschaft“ wurden am 20. März die Fairtrade-Awards vergeben.

Also read: Fair gehandelte Produkte. Lidl lohnt sich nicht für jeden | TAZ, 21.3.2012

Der Discounter soll für besonders fairen Handel ausgezeichnet werden. Aber neben den fair gehandelten Produkten liegt gern auch mal die Billigkleidung aus Bangladesh.

The Global Skin (Movie Competition)

Drehe eine Story über eine Person, die mit Textil zu tun hat oder setzte Deine
persönliche Sichtweise auf das Thema ins Zentrum Deines Videos. Zu gewinnen: Preise im Gesamtwert von 25‘000 US-Dollar.

Wir alle tragen textile Bekleidung. Textil ist unsere zweite Haut.
Herstellung, Verarbeitung und Handel verbinden uns rund um den Globus. the global skin will dieses Verbindende sichtbar machen und dadurch für faires und nachhaltiges Handeln sensibilisieren.

14.       BOOKS, REPORTS, REVIEWS, SCIENCE

Im Visier: Discounter | CCC, March 2012

Im Visier: Discounter. Eine Studie über die Arbeitsbedingungen bei Zulieferern von Aldi, Lidl und KiK in Bangladesch, Hg.: CCC/CIR,  Münster Januar 2012, 48 Seiten, Preis: 5 Euro

Eine von der Kampagne für Saubere Kleidung in Auftrag gegebene Recherche untersuchte die Arbeitsbedingungen in elf Zulieferbetrieben von Aldi, Lidl und KiK im Billiglohnland und ging somit der Frage nach, ob die bisherigen CSR-Maßnahmen der Discount-Riesen wirklich zu einer Verbesserung der Arbeitsbedingungen in den Textilfabriken geführt haben. Die Studie kam zu einem ernüchternden Ergebnis: Menschenunwürdige Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen gehören auch weiterhin zum Arbeitsalltag der NäherInnen.

Deadly Denim – Sandblasting in the Bangladesh Garment Industry | CCC 29.03.2012

Sandblasting has become the key method for finishing most modern jeans requiring that ‘worn-out’ look. Under the sandblasting process the denim is smoothed, shaped and cleaned by forcing abrasive particles across it at high speeds. The process is fast and cheap and demand for pre-worn denim has led to a massive rise in its use. But this fashion comes at a price: the health and even the lives of sandblasting workers.

Insider Guide on Cotton and Sustainability | MCL Global and Ecotextile News, 14.3.2012

The Insiders Guide to Cotton and Sustainability is a 136 page A5 that booklet covers the ecological impact of cotton production and the environmental challenges that this presents. The guidebook primarily focuses on the details of the systems and standards of sustainable cotton and the importance of research and development into the growth of the organic cotton sector. The book also includes:
•    The social and environmentally problematic over-use of pesticides
•    Cotton production data 2010-11
•    Biotechnology and genetically-engineered cotton
•    The importance of research and development
•    Mapping the way forward – recommendations
•    The evolution of IPM and agro-ecology.
The book is written by Simon Ferrigno and edited by John Mowbray.

EcoEnVogue No. 2

Trends im Einklang mit der Natur

Business Regulation and Non-State Actors: Whose Standards? Whose Development? edited by Peter Utting, Darryl Reed, Ananya Mukherjee-Reed; published by UNRISD/Routledge

This volume assesses the achievements and limitations of a new set of non-state or multistakeholder institutions that are concerned with improving the social and environmental record of business, and holding corporations to account. It does so from a perspective that aims to address two limitations that often characterize this field of inquiry. First, fragmentation: articles or books typically focus on one or a handful of cases. Second, the development dimension: what does such regulation imply for developing countries and subaltern groups in terms of well-being, empowerment and sustainability? This volume examines more than 20 initiatives or institutions associated with different regulatory and development approaches, including the business-friendly corporate social responsibility (CSR) agenda, ‚corporate accountability‘ and ‚fair trade‘ or social economy.

Ethical Consumption, Values Convergence/Divergence and Community Development

J., Matcha, H. 2012 Nexus Network Journal, 14 (1) pp. 109-118.

Fairness, trade, and inequality

 Long, M.A., Murray, D.L. 2012 Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics, pp. 1-25.

15.       CALL FOR PAPERS & PROPOSALS

Submissions to the UN Secretary General’s report on how UN system can contribute to business & human rights | Business and Human Rights, March 2012

If you would like us to include your submission on our website please email Greg Regaignon, regaignon@business-humanrights.org

16.       JOBS & INTERNSHIPS

    Deadline
Maniko-Berlin, Praktikum Ab April 2012
HESS NATUR, Projektmanagement CSR BUTZENBACH Open
Communications Manager – FLO-CERT BONN 08.04.2012
Sustainability Standards & Certification Coordinator – UTZ Certified AMSTERDAM Open

Job Vacancy – Project Officer at Impactt Limited

LONDON Open

17.       WORKSHOPS ETC.

APRIL 2012

Stress-testing the NICE CONSUMER Framework on Sustainable Consumption of Fashion

ONLINE, 03.04.2012, 4-6 pm

NEW! How Should, or Shouldn’t, Fair Trade be applied to producers in Developed Countries?

Webinar: Fair Trade Resource Network, 7.5. 1-1.50 pm, Costs: 5$

MC PLANET.COM 2012

BERLIN, 20.-22.04.2012

The Beauty of Sourcing with Respect: UEBT 2012 Conference, 12.04.2012

Paris, 12.04.2012

Fair Handeln: Messe in Stuttgart

STUTTGART, 12.-15.04.2012

OFi – Organic Fashion Izmir: Ecology Fair & OFi (Organic Fashion Izmir)

IZMIR, 12.-15.04.2012

The State of the Art in Sustainable Fashion Consumption, NICE Consumer

ONLINE, 20.04.2012

OrganicTextileForum

RORSCHACHERBERG (CH), 25.-26.04.2012

MAI 2012

NICE Pre-Fashion Summit

COPENHAGEN, 02.05.2012

Copenhagen Fashion Summit. Launch of the first sectorial initiative under UN Global Compact

COPENHAGEN, 02.05.2012

Evolving Textiles Conference at North Carolina State University

RALEIGH (USA), 17.05.2012

Impactt Conference 2012: Finding the Sweet Spot: Smarter Ethical Trade that delivers more for all

LONDON, 25.05.2012

ISEAL Conference 2012

BONN, 29.-30.05.2012

KarmaKonsum Konferenz

FRANKFURT, 31.05-01.06.2012

JUNE 2012

EBEN Research Conference Newcastle, Newcastle University:
‚Accountability, transparency, sustainability‘

NEWCASTLE, 07.-09.06.2012

The Continuum Show

NEW YORK, 24.-25.06.2012

JULY 2012

Berlin Fashion Week Berlin BERLIN, 04.-06.07.2012

Green Showroom

BERLIN, 04.-06.07.2012

InnatexLounge

BERLIN, 05.07.2012

AUGUST 2012

Innatex

HOFHEIM / FRANKFURT, 04-06.08.2012

SEPTEMBER 2012

oeko-foire (fair)

LUXEMBURG, 14.-16.09.2012

OKTOBER 2012

Sustainable Textiles Conference. Messe Frankfurt, Textile Exchange, Ecotextile News

HONG KONG, 04.-05.10.2012

Ethical Fashion Night 2012

GENEVA, 28.10.2012



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