NEWSLETTER: FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY NO. 2

This bi-weekly newsletter aims at people that are interested in sustainability, textiles and fashion – like fashion companies & CSR managers, NGOs, trade unions, journalists, researchers, students of sustainable fashion and many more. It presents a collection of links to intersting news issued during the last two weeks around „fashion, textiles and sustainability“.

Some highlights for this issue:

  • News on WORKING CONDITIONS had a strong focus on the People’s Tribunal in Cambodia which took place at the beginning of February; RFID & data security problems was an issue in Germany, child labour etc.
  • Regarding TRANSPARENCY you can read an inspiring interview with Bruno Pieters, the founder of the probably most transparent company in the world.
  • ENVIRONMENT reports that Nike tried waterless dyeing, and some news on upcycling.
  • CONSUMERS & MARKETING reports again indicate that consumers want sustainable clothes & that sex sells (no real news, but an interesting story about Abercrombie). SLOW FASHION looks at Orsola de Castro, the founder of Estethica and at a new „swopping“-trend.
  • COTTON brings TE’s outlook for 2012 & some market reports.
  • You find reports about FAIRS in Berlin, New York, London and Biofach in Nürnberg – and news about REPORTS on child labour, nanotech, label-evaluation…
  • SCIENCE news with interesting articles on scaling up CSR & private / public regulation by UNRISD & ITC etc. Finally, a JOB offer and a lot of dates to save – and much more below…

If you have any interesting news for the newsletter, please send us an email: news (at) netzwerkfairemode.com. Kind regards NETZWERK FAIRE MODE & KernKommunikation

Media

GENERAL CSR issues

GUARDIAN Sustainable Business 16.1. Rio 2012: what can the fashion industry do to become more sustainable?
With sustainability still not incorporated within the core strategy of most fashion retailers, change must happen, warns Ilaria Pasquinelli
CNN News 16.2. ‚Cheap China‘ era ends as factory workers wise up
GUARDIAN Sustainable Business 15.2. Corporate identity: who do they think they are?
How can companies balance their interests with those of the wider world? New forms of psychoanalysis could be the answer, says John Elkington
Public Eye of Davos Feb. Laudatio by Joseph Stieglitz, Public Eye Award in Davos

WORKING CONDITIONS

Cambodian People’s tribunal: Between 5. & 8.2. various workers’ organizations conducted the Cambodian People’s Tribunal to hear witnesses about the working conditions & living wages in factories and decide about the situation. More than 300 witnesses were listened to. The Tribunal asked factories to raise wages.

GUARDIAN 2.2. Cambodian workers hold ‚people’s tribunal‘ to look at factory conditions
H&M and Gap criticised for not agreeing to attend hearing next week investigating pay, working hours and ‚mass faintings‘
ETI blog 3.2. Workers must be at the heart of improving China’s factories
By Peter Mc Allister
THE PHNOM PENH POST 6.2. Factory workers testify to need for ‘living wage’
ERKLÄRUNG VON BERN 6.2. People’s Tribunal zu Existenzlohn und Arbeitsbedingungen in Kleiderfabriken
INKOTA (NGO) 8.2. Volkstribunal: TextilarbeiterInnen systematisch in Armut gedrängt
CLEAN CLOTHES CAMPAIGN 8.2. Tribunal Verdict Finds Cambodia’s Garment Workers Kept in Poverty
REUTERS 8.2. Cambodia garments „tribunal“ turns up heat on big brands
„A panel of international and local judges on Wednesday called on garment factories in Cambodia to urgently increase employees‘ salaries and pressed big international clothing brands to do more to improve working conditions.“
FIBRE2 FASHION 8.2. Tribunal asks Cambodian garment makers to hike wages
BBC news 8.2. Cambodia garment factories face demand for higher wages

OTHER SOCIAL ISSUES

The Huffington Post Jan Child Labor By Country: Maplecroft 2012 Index Ranks Risk Of Violations
ETHICAL COR-
PROPRATION
2.2. Analysis: child labour – A grown-up approach
By Oliver Balch: As the prevalence of child labour increases around the world, it is time companies rethought prevention strategies
The CHINA DAILY 6.2. Fingerprint scheme for workers from SE Asia to begin March 1 – for migrant workers
GUARDIAN blog 6.2. Protecting workers‘ rights is not always black and white
When ethical trade does more harm than good.
Asia News Network 10.2. Laos reviews law preventing child labour
ASIA NET 16.2. Yangon, company grants wage increase to striking workers
„Employees of the, Chinese-owned, Tai Yi shoe company after days of strike succeed in getting a wage increase from 75 to 100 kyat per hour (approximately 11 cents). No change to bonuses for those working 12 hours a day for 26 days a month. Strike sparked over non-payment of vacation days for the Lunar New Year“
Handels-journal 19.2. Faire Mode. Wissen und Gewissen
Die Arbeitsbedingungen in der Textilindustrie von Billiglohnländern zu prüfen, ist nach wie vor schwierig. Wer es genau wissen will, macht sich vor Ort selbst ein Bild
The Phnom Penh Post 20.2. Striking workers shot at a factory that produces for Puma

TRANSPARENCY

The German Interview Magazine conducted a wonderful interview with former head of design at Hugo Boss, Bruno Pieters. Pieters founded the company „Honest by“ that has extrodinary demands regarding its own transparency.

INTERVIEW Magazine Blog Feb Bruno-Pieters- Honest by
Umwelt Dialog (web) 8.2. Gewollte Transparenz
Joachim Schlange zum Thema Stakeholderdialog

RFID – German-speaking media widely discussed data security problems regarding RFID chips.

WDR markt (TV & Text) 16.1. RFID-Chips: Gläserne Kunden?
WDR5 (Radio) 16.1. Achtung: Ihre Kleidung könnte funken RFID-Chips in Hose, Jacke oder Mantel und was man dagegen tun kann
FOCUS Online 16.1. Datenschützer schlagen Alarm: Gerry Weber verwanzt Kleidung mit Schnüffelchips
ZEIT 16.1. Funketiketten – Datenschützer lesen RFID-Chips in Kleidung aus
Spiegel 16.1. Netzwelt-Ticker Datenschutzaktivisten warnen vor RFID-Chips in Kleidung
NZZ Online 17.1. Ihre Kleidung funkt
Süddeutsche Zeitung 18.1. RFID-Aufkleber als „Schnüffelchips“ – Warum Funketiketten eine Gefahr für Verbraucher sind
Pro7-Galileo (TV) 18.1. 100 Sekunden RFID-Chips

ENVIRONMENT

No particular focus. Some media reported about Nike’s waterless textile dyeing technique.

Manager Magazin 20.1. Upcycling. Aus Alt mach Hip
„Sie bauen Lampenschirme aus CD-Splittern, machen Fahrradschläuche zu schicken Gürteln, und aus abgerissenen Plakatschichten von der Litfasssäule entstehen bunte Leuchten: Das Leipziger Designer-Duo YeaYea hat sich dem Upcycling verschrieben. Damit steht es in der Gestalterszene nicht allein.“
ECOTEXTILE news 30.1. Textile pollution high on agenda — again
„A new consultation document on the joint brand roadmap to zero toxic discharge and the benefits of waterless dyeing were the main talking points at a well attended sustainable textiles seminar run by MADE-BY last week in The Netherlands.“
GreenBiz 7.2. Color It Green: Nike to Adopt Waterless Textile Dyeing
ECOTEXTILE news 8.2. Nike backs waterless dyeing
Textile World 14.2. Dyeing Printing & Finishing. Nike To Use DyeCoo Waterless Dyeing Technology On Apparel Line
GUARDIAN Sustainable Business 17.2. ISO14001: loved by procurement, hated by SMEs
Procurement managers should look beyond ISO14001 when making supply chain decisions and instead focus on understanding their suppliers better, says Chris Large

CONSUMERS & MARKETING

DELTA FARM PRESS 6.2. Consumers willing to buy sustainable U.S. cotton
Sustainable Brands 9.2. Consumers Want More Eco-Friendly Apparel
Brand eins Feb/ 2012 Scharf! Abercrombie & Fitch beweisen: Sex sells. Allerdings funktioniert die Masche nicht ewig.

SLOW FASHION / RECYCLING / DIY / PRODUCTION

Guardian Sustainable Business Blog 9.2. DIY sustainability: an emerging trend from the recession?
Local manufacturing, production and a do-it-yourself initiatives are flourishing in San Francisco and may set a trend for others to follow
Kleidung 15.2. Der neue Trend aus New York – Swopping
The Ecologist 17.2. The Ecologist meets… Orsola de Castro
The designer and Estethica founder chats to Ruth Styles about upcycling, showcasing new green talent and why eco-design has earned its place at the top table of British fashion

COTTON

TEXTILE EXCHANGE blog 19.1. Textile Exchange: 5 Ambitions for Organic Cotton in 2012
by Liesl Truscott
about.com organic business 15.2. Organic Trade Policy Between U.S. and the European Union
How will the summer 2012 U.S.-Europe organic trade agreement affect organics?
TEXTILE EXCHANGE blog 7.2. Sneak Peak: India Cotton in Farm & Fiber Report
by Prabha Nagarajan – Regional Director for India, Textile Exchange
TEXTILE EXCHANGE blog 14.2. Insider Views on Organic Cotton Trade and Market

FAIRS

FIBRE2 FASHION 27.1. Successful launch of Ethical Fashion Show in Berlin
FIBRE2 FASHION 4.2. Exhibitors pleased with GREENshowroom runway show
Tages-spiegel 10.2.11.2. Wolfgang Grupp über sein neustes Projekt Öko für die Massen (Interview)Neues vom Planeten MODE T-Shirts mit Salz und PfefferTwo articles (german) on Trigema
TAZ 18.2. Berlin Fashion Week. Weniger sexy war nie
New York Times 19.2. Fashion Review. ‚Upcycling‘: Obligation for the Young
Nürnberger Zeitung 19.2. Wie echt ist der grüne Anstrich?
„Die BioFach im Nürnberger Messezentrum gilt als Weltleitmesse der Biowelt. Begleitend zum offiziellen Messeprogramm gab es ein breit gefächertes Rahmenprogramm für Verbraucher. Drei Abende Information und Unterhaltung waren geboten“
The Huffington Post 20.2. London Fashion Week Day 2: When Off-Schedule is Just ‚Off‘

Reports

Organic Trade Association 2010 and Preliminary 2011. U.S. Organic Cotton Production & Marketing Trends
Maplecroft 5.1. Child Labour Index Report 2012
Conflict and economic downturn cause global increase in reported child labour violations – 40% of countries now rated ‘extreme risk’ by Maplecroft
Brazil, China, India, Indonesia and Philippines expose companies to high levels of supply chain risk
National Academy of Sciences 26.1. Health and Environmental Effects of Nanomaterials Remain Uncertain
Cohesive Research Plan Needed to Help Avoid Potential Risks From Rapidly Evolving Technology
Bundes-regierung 15.2. Nationale Nachhaltigkeitsstrategie – Fortschrittsbericht 2012
Ryan Partnership & Mambo Sprouts Marketing Feb Style with Substance
CIR
(part of CCC)
Unter der Lupe: Grüne Modefirmen, Gütesiegel und Zertifikate

Science

Jem Bendell, Anthony Miller, Katharina Wortmann (2011): Public policies for scaling corporate responsibility standards: Expanding collaborative governance for sustainable development. Sustainability Accounting, Management and Policy Journal Volume: 2 Issue: 2 2011

Peter Utting, Darryl Reed, Ananya Mukherjee-Reed (2012) Business Regulation and Non-State Actors: Whose Standards? Whose Development? Routledge. 346 pages http://bit.ly/zkwwqH
This volume assesses the achievements and limitations of a new set of non-state or multistakeholder institutions that are concerned with improving the social and environmental record of business, and holding corporations to account. It does so from a perspective that aims to address two limitations that often characterize this field of inquiry. First, fragmentation: articles or books typically focus on one or a handful of cases. Second, the development dimension: what does such regulation imply for developing countries and subaltern groups in terms of well-being, empowerment and sustainability? This volume examines more than 20 initiatives or institutions associated with different regulatory and development approaches, including the business-friendly corporate social responsibility (CSR) agenda, ‚corporate accountability‘ and ‚fair trade‘ or social economy.

ITC: The interplay of public and private standards. Literature Review Series on the Impacts of Private Standards – Part III http://bit.ly/z0DjkP
Part three of a series of four papers synthesizes the literature  related to harmonization of, and interdependencies between public and private standards. It looks into the ways in which governments could engage with private standards to impact their legitimacy and significance in the market and provides examples of complementarities between public and private standards, and the harmonization efforts made in this area. 

Standards & Certificates

Bluesign: Some interesting youtube videos about North Face & Bluesign: http://bit.ly/yJEmqK

Apps & Websites

Upcycling app needs funding: http://teamcora.com/

Asian Floor Wage Cambodia blog: http://afwcam.wordpress.com/

Movies

Behind the label: first screening world wide of the movie about cotton farmers at BIOFACH; possibly to be released into cinemas, soon.

Jobs

Bluesign: Lead Auditor http://bit.ly/wRoxdh

Dates & Workshops

CCC Ideenworkshop zu mehr Transparenz bei CSR (Anmeldung über Femnet) 24.02.2012 Berlin
Ethical Fashion Symposium 09.03. – 11.3. Oxford
Leuphana Sustainability Summit 29.02. – 2.3.2012 Lüneburg
Ethical Fashion Show Paris 02.03. – 04.03.2012 Paris
ProBio (Messe) 08.03 – 10.3.2012 Bremen
31. Internationale Baumwoll-Tagung 21.03. – 24.3.2012 Bremen
4th Fair Trade International Symposium 02.04. – 04.04.2012 Liverpool
Organic Textile Forum 25.04. – 26.04.2012 CH-
Rorschacherberg
Bundespreis Ecodesign Anmeldung bis 30.04.2012
KarmaKonsumKonferenz 31.05. – 01.06.2012 Frankfurt
Berlin Fashion Week Berlin 04.07. – 06.07.2012 Berlin
Innatex Lounge 05.07.2012 Berlin
Innatex 04.08. – 06.08.2012 Hofheim
(bei Frankfurt)
Forum Berufsbildung Hamburg:
Neuer Naturtextil-Ausbildungsgang in Deutschland
Hamburg

2 Kommentare on “NEWSLETTER: FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY NO. 2”

  1. Absoluter Lesestoff! Danke.

  2. Saskia Sanders sagt:

    Finde Euren Newsletter genial! So viel spannende Infos so praktisch gebündelt, echt super. Vielen Dank fürs zusammenstellen.


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